From Birth Until Age 85, You Have 750,000 Hours - How Will You Spend Them?
Monday, June 29, 2009
Hoghton Tower Vintage Car and Motorbike Show
A sunny Sunday afternoon, we could lounge around surfing the web, but...nah! Need to be outside enjoying the gorgeous English summer! We went over to Hoghton Tower for a ramble through the vintage cars, and the vintage motorbikes for Steve. Many of the stately homes in the UK host these car shows where cars from as far back as the 1920's and 30's right up to 1980's are displayed. People bring out their treasured vehicles, line them up and we get to peek. Nice grassy parkland, with a stately home in the background, and people picnicing everywhere - very fair-like atmosphere. One of these trips, we should bring the red jag.
We typically start by checking out the real oldies and there were several this time which had been brought over from the US and very lovingly cared for. These cars are worth tens of thousands today and you can look, but don't touch! The ones from the 20's, 30's, and 40's are really interesting to check out the inside of and check out things like the old crank handles and wooden spoke wheels.
The 50's, 60's and 70's rows are fun to look at too. Cars even as new as the 70's are now retro and funky looking, rather than just dated. We looked at a 260Z and it brought back memories of how cool it was to have a 280Z in high school (which I did not) - there were also several cars there which were not cool at all in high school which definitely are now!
Steve was checking out the Triumph Stags and I found my latest dream car, a Daimler Dart. Very few of these were made and they were not incredibly popular, but they were fast - 120 miles per hour. I really liked the Porshe / retro fin / British feel to it, it made me think of Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn, scarves and sunglasses.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Headwinds and Tailwinds
We experienced the same 'headwind effect' while on the tandem this past week. Pedaling uphill with a strong wind pushing against us left us gasping, having to stop because we were too tired to go any further and pushing the bike on foot. We made progress, but it was slow and painful.
Compare this to the tailwind experience, sailing with 25 knots of wind pushing you along - easy, comfortable with the elements aligned to move you along or bicycling with the wind at your back, at times you don't even have to pedal!
How often do we take advantage of or ignore the impact of headwinds and tailwinds in the rest of our lives? There are economic headwinds (recessions) and tailwinds (business booms), financial and career headwinds / tailwinds. Have you ever experienced a financial tailwind? Where everything is on a roll and the money is just rolling in? How about a career tailwind where you're the 'chosen one', in with the boss, making great progress, can do no wrong?
Recognising and taking advantage of those tailwinds is a key to maximising your progress and the speed at which goals are attained. Recognising that the winds change is also essential! As many have found, economic 'winds' change - just because the money is rolling in today doesn't mean that the wind will be blowing in the same direction tomorrow. As humans, I think we believe that just because things are one way, they will stay one way - and they don't! One of our key learnings from sailing (which we're applying in the rest of our life) is that when the wind is blowing in the direction we want to go, a tailwind, we sail - because tomorrow it might not be.
The other thing we've learned is that if we're battling a headwind, perhaps we should change direction and go someplace else! If it's going to be a battle with little to no progress, why not change direction and do something entirely different? Tough economic market, nobody's buying? Rather than bashing one's head against the wall, use the time to develop new skills, business or personal. Design a website, a new line of business, become an expert (only takes about a year to develop deep expertise in an area).
If business or the economy are absolutely rubbish, why not do some of those personal things that we always put off because we're too busy? Rent out the house and go backpacking through America, Europe or New Zealand. Those things we put off also don't have to cost a lot of money. How long have we been putting off getting fit (exploring our world by foot or bike costs nothing) or not made the time for our important relationships because we're too busy? How about that novel you've always wanted to write or starting a blog if you've got something to share? Why not take some of that time (that we ordinarily don't have) and share it with those we don't typically have a lot of time for - our children, our siblings, our aging or more distant relatives?
Rather than battling into a business headwind, why not turn it into a personal tailwind?
Saturday, June 27, 2009
There's Probably a Reason...
And Another...
Makes You Think!
A Navigationally Challenged Day = 50 Miles
An interesting day, if a bit navigationally challenged...
Started the day with breakfast at the B&B. This by itself is not unusual, but the setup of this breakfast was different than any we'd had before. At every other B&B we'd been to, the breakfast room consists of little individual tables where Steve and I and the other guests sit by ourselves and have a fairly quiet breakfast. We do say good morning and good day, but that's really the extent of the conversation. The design of last night's farmhouse B&B did not lend itself to that so instead everyone was seated the same big table in front of the fireplace in the very country dining room. It was the best breakfast we've had so far.
We had a very lively conversation with Jeremy, Eric and Sylvia of Toronto and Clearwater, with Bruce from Watford, and Joan and Arthur from Nottinghamshire. Travels, motorbikes, trains (UK and Canada), sailing, motorhomes, and spoons were all discussed. It was lively, interesting and a great way to start the day. It was so good, I'm surprised more B&Bs don't do it, but having read several books on running B&Bs, they all seem to recommend the separate table setup - too bad, one big table was lots more fun!
Today was our big day, 40 miles back home. If we could do this, then the chances are pretty good we'll be able to do our 45 mile days in France. We headed out back through Linton, just as pretty as the night before (no houses for sale though, not surprising) and then through Hetton. Our route took us through Gargreave where we stopped for tea in the Dalesman Cafe which is all decorated with antiques, has one room done up like the interior of a canal boat and is very much like an old time sweet shop. The hills were smaller, but the scenery was just as beautiful. We're quite enamoured of the very narrow roads with no traffic! After a nice wind through the country, we spotted Clitheroe in the distance and knew we were headed towards home.
But that's when things became a bit challenged. We turned onto a road which was supposed to lead us towards Downam, our lunch stop. As we were pedaling along, I noticed a house which I admire each time we go by it on the motorbike, I admire it as we are heading away from home and this was supposed to be a road I'd never been on before. Hmmm, after a map consult, we'd headed in the opposite direction. That was okay, because we could take an alternative route and after a restorative chocolate bar we headed off again. Actually we headed off into uncharted country (i.e., Steve had never been there before).
We wandered over hills, dropped into valleys, climbed back up hills! We went through several towns that were totally new to Steve which was interesting because we were back in Lancashire now and he's been all over on his bicycle and motorbike. We found a very good pub on the top of a hill with a gorgeous valley view - I wish I could tell you where it was!
After a restorative tea and cookie break, we encountered territory that Steve recognised and started to make some headway towards home. My first familiar sight was a Blackburn roundabout which was nice because then I could sort of picture how far it was to home. We came through town and pedaled up New Preston Road towards our street. As we turned the corner onto Billinge End Road, I wasn't sure if we'd make the sharp, steep hill that it starts with, but with much huffing and puffing we got up there. The freewheel from the top down to our house was one of the best ever - and so was the drink in the tub after!
Steve counted, we did 50 miles in hilly country fully loaded with luggage. I think we'll be okay in France.
(There may be a GPS in our future...but where's the fun in that?)
Friday, June 26, 2009
And We Thought There Were a Lot of Hills in Lancashire!
That was until we started bicycling in Yorkshire! Started yesterday heading out of Settle going up hill. As we left town, we passed an old man working in his garden who shouted after us, "You've a long way to go and it's all up hill. Four miles ALL UP HILL!". Then we saw the sign, 1 in 5 grade (you climb 1 foot for every 5 feet you travel). Oh goodie...
I'd love to say we perservered, dug in and heroically made it to the top, but that would be stretching things a bit (or a lot). We actually went about a quarter mile further and then had to get off and push! We didn't have to push the entire way up, but there were two steep bits that we'll save for another time.
Stark, barren, lonely and beautiful is how I think of the Yorkshire Dales. When we got to the top, we could see for miles. It's one of those places where you feel like you've reached the top of the world and the whole thing is spread out before you. There was no one up there but us. All we could hear was the wind whipping through the grass. It's a very alone place and very beautiful.
We continued on with bits of downhill and a very nice headwind. The wind keeps you cool, but if if you're pedaling into it it slows you down. We were pedaling right into it!
After a lovely and fast dowhill run, we dropped back into the valleys. We pootled around the lanes going through Kirkby Malham and stopping for tea, a scone and a bacon buttie in Malham. Some children were there on a field trip and walked by looking at and photographing the tandem. Their teacher said it was the most interesting thing they'd seen so far (nice, but did they not have their eyes open?!).
We had a picnic lunch on the edge of a new mown field. Our view, hills rolling into the distance covered with fields lined with stone walls. The houses in the country parts of Yorkshire are mainly stone, small cottages and bigger houses, many covered with climbing roses or ivy. This time of year the gardens are in full bloom. We admired the view and had a doze in the sunshine.
A bicyclist in an orange beanie hat stopped by for a chat, where have you come from, where are you going type of stuff.
We finished the day by pedaling to Grassington, having a drink and a wander through the shops. We bumped into another couple on a tandem, very serious tandemists - in training for the Lands End to John O'Groats trip (top of the UK to the bottom) planning on doing a hundred miles a day and camping on the way. This means that they will have to carry the camping gear on their bike. I'll ask the more experienced bikers in the group, is it possible to do 100 miles a day for 10 days loaded up with all that gear? Also there are hills, lots of hills!
Steve and I would like to do that trip, but we'll pass on the camping.
Because we hadn't had enough exercise already, we walked to Linton where there was a great pub, The Fountaine, gastro rather than pub grub. Tried their 'beat the clock' special where what you pay is the time you order. A very, very nice meal for 6 something each!
Our B&B is on the banks of the river that winds slowly through Grassington and our room in this old stone farmhouse overlooks the river and the gardens. Breakfast is sharp at 8:45! (We'll need it because it's 40 miles home!)
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Yorkshire in Tandem
Sitting in our B&B bed looking out at a fabulous view of a Yorkshire hill covered with rambling stone Walls and watching the scrambling of sheep as they dash from eating spot to eating spot - sheep rush hour perhaps?
On our first overnight tandem trip cycling from Lancashire through a bit of Yorkshire and back again. We're staying in Settle on the first night and Grassington the second and doing between 30 and 40 miles each day.
Had a beautiful ride on back roads yesterday, a few surprise hills, but not too many. The bike is definitely heavier when carrying packed panniers and we think we'll continue our 'training' for France with them on. It would be a real shock to get used to riding without them and then put them on for 500 miles!
The Settle Lodge is where we stayed last night and it's very nice, we would come back. Some places make that little bit of extra effort, offering us a cup of tea with cake when we arrived for example, that costs very little and makes a significant impression on a guest.
Had some great pizza at the Olive Room, might be the best pizza I've had in England. Definitely had the best scone with jam and cream at a little tea shop on Waddington - probably should have ridden over Waddington Fell to burn it off!
Today will be a big climb (might be a walk!) out of Settle and across the Dales to Grassington.
Might Live Forever or It Might Just Seem Like It
I'm also enjoying the by-product of all that pedaling to get to those places, getting stronger and fitter. And I'm really, really pleased to have found some things that I enjoy that will keep me fit because 750,000 Hours can be a really, really long time without a body that can support everything I want to do.
There's so much written about how people today are overweight and becoming ill, but there's less written on how much smaller one's life becomes when you get out of shape. If you hurt, you can't walk for long distances and you get out of breath easily, there's a limitation on the activities you'll choose to do. You don't do certain things, you don't go to certain places, you don't try new things, and ultimately your life becomes smaller and smaller as you do less and less.
As we, as a species, live longer and longer, there are a lot of years to fill. 100 years old used to be a big deal, now it's not that surprising. Those years could be fascinating, exciting and filled with all sorts of activities, or they could seem like forever...
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Who to Impress
This quote really makes me think about the reasons for buying stuff, do we do it because that's what we want to do or is it for some other (unconscious perhaps?) reason? If we buy stuff we don't need that we then have to use up a significant number of those precious 750,000 Hours working to pay for, is that really what we want to be doing? Then why do we do it?
Who are we impressing?
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Tandem Tumble
Lots of rides out on the tandem now. We're touring the beautiful country around Pleasington - Whalley, Rivington, Pendleton and all over the Ribble Valley. The trips are ranging from 15 to our trip yesterday of 37 very hilly miles!
Really enjoying the tandem experience and starting to get our act together as a team (mostly!). There's a bit more to riding a tandem than simply hopping on a single bike and taking off. There's the synchronization aspect of two people of different capabilities trying to do the same thing at the same time and the compensation factor particularly for the person in the rear (the stoker) who cannot see the road. We're starting to come closer capability-wise, or to be fair I should say my capability is growing. I can tell my legs are getting stronger and am less bothered by the hills. Steve's getting the gear shifting down, he says he uses a lot more gears a lot more often than you would on a single bike. He's also getting very good at with the running monologue that he needs to communicate the conditions of the road and what he's about to do gear-wise to me - "Big change up," "Big change down," "Bump," "Another bump," and "Lots of bumps!"
We've also discovered that the tandem is not as maneuverable on corners as a single bike as we took a tumble as we turned a corner in front of the Black Dog Pub in Belmont. We now know not to take corners so fast and not to change gears while cornering! No major injuries other than a skinned knee and a sore wrist, and pride - of course there were people sitting outside the pub who witnessed our tumble!
Did our biggest day yet yesterday leaving Pleasington and heading towards Abbey Village, through Belmont, Chorley and Withnell. This trip involved lots of hills, but particularly several long climbs up into the Pennine Moors with spectacular views at the top (which we really enjoyed once we got our breath back!). We had thought that it might be close to 30 miles, but when Steve added it all up it was 37 miles total. With all those hills, we figure we're getting close to being able to handle some of those Brittany days of 45 to 50 miles!
Monday, June 22, 2009
Ostrich / Emu - Not Your Typical English Backyard Critter
Steve and I were merrily surfing the web (cause it's been raining for days!) the day before yesterday and looked up to see an ostrich in the pasture behind the house. Now we do see a lot of animals back there, cows, pheasants, wood pidgeons, magpies, squirrels and rabbits galore, but we don't normally see ostriches. It strolled across the field and disappeared into the woods. Gave us a moment's pause, but we didn't think too much of it...
...until it appeared yesterday in our back garden! Somehow it had managed to get inside the fence and then couldn't figure out how to get back out again. It wandered about for two hours poking its head through the fence, trying to get back out. We didn't go near it, having spoken with the ostrich lady at the Hoghton Tower Farmer's Market that morning. She sells ostrich meat so we asked her if she was missing one and she told us they are quite dangerous. So we left it quite alone in the yard!
I called the police to see if anyone had reported a 6 foot tall missing bird, nope. Then I called the Royal Society for Protection of Birds who do protect birds, but they don't rescue them (?). And finally I called the RSPCA who does rescue, but not dangerous birds on Sunday (because there are only two people on between Blackburn and Scotland and you need a group for a big bird like that).
After two hours, the cows came up the field and being quite nosy cows, came over to investigate the odd looking creature in the garden. Waking up to a half a dozen Holsteins staring down at you must have been a shock to the poor bird because it panicked and began careening around the garden. It is a very small garden and a very big bird. It finally forced its way through the fence and over the rock wall into the woods and took off!
We did a bit of research and found out it's an emu rather than a female ostrich (three toes instead of two). No sign of it since and I'll be surprised if the RSPCA folks will be able to find it when they show up today. I suspect it's half-way to Scotland by now!
Saturday, June 20, 2009
In Tolkien's Footsteps
Yesterday, we went on a walk around Hurst Green, Stonyhurst College and by the Hodder and Ribble Rivers called the Tolkien Trail. This area of Lancashire is Tolkien country where he spent time while writing The Lord of the Rings. His son was attending school at Stonyhurst which was a Jesuit seminary back then.
The walk was a lovely ramble through the 'Shire' beginning in Hurst Green, skirting around the beautiful buildings of Stonyhurst, past Hodder place and then following the edge of the Hodder River until it connected with the Ribble. I could see where his inspiration for the Shire came from, leafy lanes, winding paths through the woods, the stroll alongside the river. We had a picnic lunch at the edge of the Hodder and I could just imagine Tolkien with his notebook on a sunny afternoon looking at the same view and adding in hobbits, elves and other creatures.
It was a good day for a walk, too windy to be out on the tandem (40 mph gusts are a bit much!), but the fleeces blocked most of it. When we were 8 miles in to what was described as a 5-mile walk, we realised that someone had some 'measurement challenges'. I couldn't figure out why I was tired and why my feet hurt - it was only 5 miles and I'd walked 6 on Sunday with no problems (and more hills!), what was going on? Steve measured the route when we got home and, sure enough, 8 miles!
Length aside, it was still a great walk with lots of places and things that we'd never seen before (usual for me, highly unusual for Steve who's wandered around this part of the world for years). Would do it again, but plan for 8 rather than 5 miles next time!
Friday, June 19, 2009
In Praise of the Picnic
I noticed something different when traveling through Europe, people pulled off in laybys / rest areas and having a picnic. My family used to have picnics when I was a child (probably driven by the cost efficiencies necessary with five kids!) and they were great fun! The blanket spread out on the grass on a summer's day, the cold lemonade, hearty sandwiches and some fruit for dessert. A relaxing rest, a meal in a beautiful spot, a bit of a rest and then we were back on our way - delightful!
Compare that to battling your way to the counter at the typical road side fast food option to get a meal which seldom resembles anything good for you, never mind delightful. If you can get away with spending less than $20, you're pretty lucky (or feeding just one).
After seeing all the picnics along the way and being in thrifty mode, Steve and I decided to try them again and found them to be both gourmet and cheap, two words not commonly found together! On a day trip in the car, we replicate my mom's approach and pack big sandwiches, fruit and a flask of tea. On a walk, we'll pack crusty bread, some lovely French cheese, an Italian sausage, sometimes a flask of tea or if we're being really naughty a bottle of cold white wine.
Total outlay for such a lavish spread? Usually less than $5, with a bottle of wine less than $10. And it's certainly a bit more enjoyable than a burger, fries and a coke!
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Over the Top of the Nick O'Pendle
The tandem rides have continued (no, it's not just sitting in the garage!) and we've been getting out on it 2-4 times a week. This is training for our bicycling trip to Brittany in September where we'll spend about 10 days covering 500 miles. The rides each day run about 45 miles with the big day at 63 miles. Training for those of us who have sat in front of a computer for the past 3-6 years is a must!
"It's surprising that the Northwest produces so many good riders," Steve said sarcastically as we gasped our way up yet another hill. The Northwest of England is littered with hills. Seems like every place you look, there's another one. Makes for beautiful scenery and very tired legs on a bike! And our house is at the top of a steep hill so the ride home is always uphill!
But we are (I am) getting used to it. I was always put off bike riding because of the hills, but now in some instances I even enjoy going up hill - great way to get warm fast! My 'sit bones' are starting to toughen up and the legs are getting stronger.
We've done 8-9 good sized rides now including a 30 mile jaunt around the Ribble Valley and the loop around Hoghton Tower a couple of times. We've made it up the 3.5 mile Pleasington Hill and the 6 mile mostly uphill climb back from Long Ridge.
The two really big hills in the area are Pendle Hill and Waddington Fell. Yesterday we tackled Pendle Hill for the first time (for me and for the first time in a really long time for Steve). We started out by doing a quick climb up Revidge (no sweat now!) and dropped down through the outskirts of Blackburn into Langho. We stopped at Kath and Jack's in Langho to say hello as we hadn't seen them since we've been back. Then it was up 'over the top' through York and down into Whalley with gorgeous views of the Ribble Valley to our left the whole way. Right at the roundabout in Whalley to head for Sabden. Jack had recommended an antique shop and cafe in Sabden as a good 'tea break' spot so we stopped in there. The cafe wasn't open, but the antique shop was so we had a good rummage around all three floors.
Sabden is at the foot of Pendle Hill so as we turned left out of town we were confronted with the upward climb. The bike has 27 gears, but we dropped quickly down into the lowest one and then it was just peddle, peddle, peddle from there on up. The grade climb on Pendle Hill is 1 in 5 or a climb of one foot for every five feet you traverse. The sheep may have been walking faster than us, but we kept going. At one point, Steve offered to stop (giving me an 'out clause'), but I wanted to see how far we could get. We finally and slowly peddled over the crest and up the remaining hill to the top. WOW, what a view and WOW, look how far up we are!
The top of Pendle was a great place for a picnic and after the climb we enjoyed every bite. After lunch we zoooommmmmmeeeddd down the hill and turned the corner into Pendleton. From there we took a tiny road to Whiswell and then dropped back down into Whalley intending to treat ourselves to a celebratory tea and cake - but the Toby Jug Tea Shop was closed! Oh, no! We had been planning on stopping in at Steve's Uncle John and Auntie Margaret's after Whalley so we just headed off there instead for our cup of tea and a chat. Then it was the long peddle back up Revidge hill and Billinge hill to the house where we got off on very shakey legs!
Steve says even in his cycling days the Nick O'Pendle wasn't something he undertook lightly. It's a good sized hill. The tandem is really proving to be a great bike and it's great to be able to talk (when we aren't gasping uphill, that is!). We're also pretty pleased that we made it over the Nick without stopping!
So What Have You Learned...
Monday, June 15, 2009
Motto to Live By (Mostly)
Anonymous
I love this quote and actively work to practice what it preaches...but (there's always a 'but', isn't there?!) I want to make sure that my body holds out so that I can have that fantastic ride, rather than a not so fantastic ride in a wheelchair in a nursing home. If I'm going to make the most of the time I'm here, I need to have a body that will stand up to the rigours I'm going to put it to. This is something that I largely ignored over the past 20 years or so while climbing the corporate ladder, but if I don't pay attention now at 46 I might reach the point of no return that so many folks do - it gets too hard and painful to get back in shape, or illnesses / medications interfere. Then one moves into a slow, quiet decline doing less and less each year until the scope of one's world is the walls of a room in a nursing home as the medications keep you alive, but you no longer have a life - I want to fight that off!
And actually I'm discovering that a big part of that, "WHOO HOO, what a ride!" can be about building a body that will serve you well during your 750,000 Hours. Unlike so much of media's / society's common focus on fitness, I'm focusing on experiences that keep me active rather than getting in shape - a subtle difference, but for me an important one. There's a big thrill in screaming down a hill on a tandem bike (they're heavier and therefore faster than a regular bike when going downhill!), sailing in a 20 knot wind, hiking to the top of a hill and seeing the world spread out before you. How about swimming in a turquoise sea while diving for conch or lobsters? When was the last time you went ice skating?
I find the whole fitness, work out in a gym thing INCREDIBLY boring. Some folks love it, but the idea of endless hours on a treadmill walking or running to nowhere, 'follow-the-leader' exercise classes, or having a personal trainer egg me on to just one more sit up makes me want to gag. I've tried all of the above and each has proven to be a waste of time and money. Like I said, some folks love it, but it's not for me - I get bored (not surprising) and don't keep it up (also not surprising).
Besides, where's the WHOO HOO in a gym? I want things that are exciting (and by the way, they give me a fitter body at the same time)! I want to be out enjoying this world that we live in, not shut in another room with no windows after spending all day in a room with no windows (the office). There are lots of ways to keep active (fit) that are interesting, fun and exciting.
Hiking in gorgeous hills, bicycling (try a tandem!) through the beautiful countryside, downhill or cross country skiing, dance (try completing a complicated spin turn, a tango and see if there isn't a big WHOO HOO in there!), a team sport you used to love when you were younger, swimming (and not just laps, zzzzzz!), volleyball on the beach, pulling the ropes on a sailboat as it crashes through the waves. That's my 'starter for ten' - what are your thoughts on exciting activities that keep you active, and fit?
Thursday, June 11, 2009
All the Way Around...
...Ireland, that is! 1700 miles into a 1200 mile trip, we arrived back home after travelling all the way around Ireland. We thought it was going to be a bit shorter than it was, but what a fantastic trip! Both Northern and Southern Ireland are beautiful, just as green and picturesque as we've read about. The Irish people are lovely, with all the hospitality that's written about too.
We started out by packing up the bike (how can I forget how to do this in such a short time!) with enough stuff to last for 9 days in three 12x15x5 inch panniers (motorbike boxes). This is always a feat of engineering and we know we're done packing when nothing else fits! Then it was a quick trip down the motorway to Wales.
We've done a motorbike trip in Wales through the Snowdonia region and that was very nice, but this time we went through the middle of Wales and enjoyed it even more. The roads were great, the hills, mountains and foliage were at their summer's best, and the cottages, houses, stately homes and castles were everywhere you looked. Steve at one point remarked, "It's been 20
minutes since we've seen a castle, what's wrong?!" It was a nice mix of sweeping roads through leafy forests and then climbing over the hills. The towns were unspoiled in the main with little evidence of chain store invasion. It's amazing what a difference it makes to the look of a town to
have the old hand painted signs versus neon.
We stayed at B&B's for all of the trip except for Dublin and it worked out so well that it's something we'll do in the future. They ran the gamut from posh to plain, but were good value and quite interesting. Staying at B&Bs also allowed us to have conversations with the people who lived there which was a really nice change. Usually the conversations we have when we travel
are limited to check in / check out and ordering meals - hardly a view into local personalities! While our conversations weren't anything earth-shattering on this trip, it was nice to get people's thoughts on good places to go in the towns, little know scenic routes to travel and views of things happening in Ireland. It was also nice to see the differences in the B&Bs, these are people's homes after all even if they are run as businesses. All served some form of the traditional Irish breakfast which seems to be a three course meal beginning with muesli / yogurt / fruit followed by toast and then eggs, bacon, sausage, black pudding and white pudding (don't ask, you don't want to know!), potato cakes and fried bread (we are eating lots of fruits and veg this week!), but there were distinct differences in the quality and preparation from extremely cheap and basic to everything organic / homemade - including fruit preserves and yogurt. I had a lightly smoked haddock omelette that was one of the best breakfast meals I've ever had!
Our night in Wales was spent at the Highland Moors Guest House in Llandrindod Wells, run by an Irish / English couple who had chucked it all and moved to the country to raise their children (we think there were three, but there may have been four) and run a B&B. They are slowly renovating this big old spa hotel which is the last one standing in Wales. We searched the town for a restaurant and ended up at a Chinese, which we were a bit unsure of - the appetiser menu only had 5 things on it and two were ribs. But our options were limited, the Indian was closed and the all-you-can-eat buffet was busily serving leftover lunch food, so we gave it a go. We went with the set menu for three ("But you are only two!" "We don't care.") and had a fantastic, if very big, meal. So if you're ever in Llandrindod Wells, try the set menu for three at the only Chinese in town!
We took the car ferry from Pembrooke Dock to Rosslare, Ireland. It was a four hour trip across a flat calm Irish Sea. These car ferries are like small cruise ships, with cabins if you want them, restaurants, lounges, and the ever-present duty free shop. We lounged and read for the four hours and then hopped back on the bike for the 15 mile trip to our first Irish B&B in Wexford. This was the nicest of the B&Bs we stayed at and a great way to start the trip. McMenamin's Town House was the epitome of what I would consider the classic B&B, antique furniture, flowers, and an array of gourmet, homemade foods - just lovely!
Then across the southern part of Southern Ireland to Killarney, positioning us to ride around the Kerry Ring the next day. We stayed at a simple and basic B&B there called Rathmore House, run by Pat and Mary. Pat was full of information about the area, where to go and what to see. Killarney was where I had my first Guinness, something that we continued to enjoy throughout the trip and we had an excellent fresh seafood dinner. Killarney was a nice town, a bigger one with lots of shops and restaurants - and Jaunt Carts! We couldn't figure out what they were when we saw the sign, but as we were leaving the next morning and saw all the horses and carts lined up we figured it out - something for next time. We cruised out of Killarney past the lake and into the forest which starts the beginning of the clockwise trip around the Kerry Ring (most people have to go clockwise around the narrow roads because there are many places where you cannot pass the tour buses, but it didn't matter on the bike - and we didn't have to follow the tour buses!). It is one of the most scenic and famous routes in all of Ireland, and it lived up to its reputation. Winding through the woods, past lakes and streams and over hills and through mountains, the view as we whizzed by ranged from cottages nestled in sheltered valleys to mountain slopes covered with fields of rhododendrons, a mass of purple against hills covered with hedgerow-lined pastures and stone walls.
Throughout the trip the scenery was beautiful, so much so that I arrived at home having taken 452 pictures!
After the Kerry Ring, our next night was in Galway at a basic, basic B&B! It was a good walk to the town and the restaurant, which we needed because the Irish breakfasts were already beginning to add up. We had our Guinness at O'Connors Famous Pub and decided to come back for the music after dinner. Dinner, on the barman's recommendation, was just down the street at Da Roberta, an excellent Italian. After dinner, we came back for the music, a duo on guitar and piano. Now the Irish music I have been exposed to in the past, I have not really been a fan of listening to for a whole evening, nice for a few minutes though. This was excellent, a mix of what I would call honky-tonk piano and classical guitar - wonderful, could have listened to it for days! Unfortunately they didn't have a CD or it would have been an immediate addition to our music collection (my American money making gene had also indignantly raised its head, 'But, but, but they could be making money at this!' 'Steve's response, 'Perhaps they don't want to' took me a
while to get my head around). Breakfast was 'interesting' and then we were off to Donegal.
We went to Donegal via a loop around the northwestern part of Southern Ireland, another gorgeous scenic drive along the sea and through the mountains. It was pretty barren up there and you could see where people had been cutting and stacking peat to burn in their stoves over the winter. The rhoddys were still in bloom all over along with entire hedges of fushia! Donegal was quaint with a tiny castle and an excellent Thai restaurant. It was pretty funny as we were sitting there eating this amazing Thai food and people from a coach tour at the table next to us were being served mass-produced mash, steamed veg and some form of meat / gravy - same restaurant, totally different food experience!
After Donegal, we headed up across the border into Northern Ireland. Unlike Southern Ireland, Northern Ireland is still part of the UK and there are distinct differences between the two countries. The scenery in Northern Ireland is just as spectacular, but the houses are different. They did not go through the housing boom that the southerners did and houses are of the older and cottage-y variety, more architecturally interesting, I think. We continued along the coast and stopped for a hike and a peek at the Giant's Causeway . Then on up to Ballycastle, way up on the north coast, just above the Glens of Antrim and stayed at Clare House overlooking the town of Ballycastle, the sea and Torr Head in the distance. It was a good hike into and out of town for dinner, but again we needed it after all the Irish breakfasts!
The man at Clare House suggested that as we were on the bike we should take the lessor used coastal road by Torr Head. You can't go on it on coach buses or with caravans, but it's fine for a bike. It's twisting, winding and slowly navigating up, down and along the cliffs by the sea. It's one of those places where you want to take it slowly and not make any mistakes, because as you look over the edge of the road just to your right it's a 500 foot drop right down to the rocks and crashing surf! There were sheep and cows wandering in their pastures right at the edge of the cliffs (Steve wonders how many fall off) with the most amazing views right across to Scotland. As we dropped down from the cliffs, the road got better (less steep, less cliff edge-like) and meandered for miles along the shore. It was sunny and cold with a brisk wind. We saw a couple of sailboats and decided that would not be us - too cold! The whole Glens of Antrim area was
gorgeous and I'd like to spend more time exploring it - perhaps another time do a motorbike / hike trip.
It was a fairly quick trip from there into Dublin and after a tour of the one-way road system, we managed to find our hotel, Trinity Lodge. It's a little boutique hotel in the heart of Dublin, right next to the shopping district and the Temple Bar area. After a double-decker bus tour of the city, we headed over to Temple Bar to find dinner. When Julie and Andrew talked about going to Temple Bar, I thought they meant 'a' bar and I pictured in my mind a fairly modern chrome and wood type place. I couldn't have been more off! Temple Bar is a street district of restaurants and pubs, streets and streets of them! As you walk along, there are musicians playing streetside and music pours out from the open doors of the pubs. One pub had a sign out front with its music schedule, 12-3, 3-6, 6-9, 9-12 with different musicians for every set. We had a pre-dinner Guinness accompanied by Irish music (not as good as the guys at O'Connor's Famous Pub!) and then found a place for our first 'Irish' dinner of the entire trip at Gallagher's Boxty House. We had a boxty starter, potato pancakes served with sauces (they are also served stuffed). Steve had steak and Murphy's (a Guinness alternative, gasp!) stew and I had bacon, cabbage and colcannon (mashed potatoes with onion and cabbage, quite similar to the English bubble and squeak). The waiter warned me that the bacon (ham) was a large portion, but I figured Steve could help if he was still hungry. I didn't realise they would bring a whole ham out! It was enormous and more than enough for three people, never mind one!
Colcannon (from the BBC recipe website)
500g/1lb2oz mealy potatoes, cooked
250g/9oz cabbage, shredded and lightly steamed
2 tbsp cream
salt and black pepper
1 large or 2 small onions, sliced thinly
a little bacon fat, beef dripping or other frying oil
(I think the colcannon I had also had cheese in it)
1. Sieve or mash the potatoes and mix with the cabbage and cream. Season well with salt and pepper.
2. Fry the onion in the fat over a moderate heat until it is soft and beginning to brown.
3. Using a spatula, press half the potato and cabbage mixture in an even layer on to the onion and fry for 4-5 minutes until it is well browned and crispy underneath.
4. Cut the mixture into 4 quarters with the spatula or palette knife and turn them over carefully so that the crispy bit is uppermost. Press the remaining potato and cabbage mixture on to the first layer and after a few more minutes, cut and turn again.
5. When the bottom is again browned, you will have a crispy top too, a crispy bottom, and a crispy layer in the middle.
After Dublin, we headed over the Wicklow Mountains. It was misty, wild and desolate up there. We drove for miles and we only saw a bit of fencing, no sheep, no cows, no houses. Winters must be very quiet up there, we wondered if the roads would even be passable once snow came. We did see a few wild deer and it felt like we'd reached the top part of the world as we went over the mountains. I would like to go back and see it in the sunshine!
it was back to Rosslare for an overnight before catching the morning ferry (8:45 sail) back to Wales. Had a great evening walk along the cliffs there, the wind was whipping! Good thing it was blowing onshore or it could have blown us over the cliffs if we weren't careful. We were accompanied in spots by a very nice herd of cows. Another good B&B, St. Martins, and a Chinese dinner. We probably didn't eat as much Irish food as we should have and after we recovered from Dublin, we would have like to try more. I'm not a big fan of stews, but after Dublin found a variety of things I would like to try, including champ again. Often the selections in the towns were basic pub grub (which was posing for Irish), seafood, or Chinese / Thai. Basic pub grub, we're not really huge fans of so we stuck with the rest. Next time, we'd enquire further to find the really good Irish restaurants.
A nice four-hour trip back. Steve took a slightly different but equally scenic route back through Wales and we were back at home within about 5 hours of riding off the ferry. At some points we weren't sure of Ireland, mainly because the condition of the roads made motorbiking a bit strenuous, but it turned out to be a fun and beautiful trip. It's definitely on our list of places to visit again and one of the nicest things about the whole trip - we didn't get rained on once!!!